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When compiling a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred names. However, situated near the top among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu found in a distant part of north London.

A Shocking Recognition

The small Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. The accolade has left the family utterly surprised.

“I’m totally surprised,” remarks a proprietor, alluding to his family’s dedication that culminated in their humble restaurant securing such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This compact space, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the fare, and this restaurant more than delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender quality.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

It is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet profile.

Rising Above the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for under £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can cost many times that price.

The Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s success is set to echo outside its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this gastronomic honour.